At times you feel like writing non-stop, taking it all out what’s torturing you from the inside and throwing it away in the form of words—words that carry the fire, the flame, the hurt that’s eating you from the inside.
I was hurt today, a bit demotivated, because what I thought I can do and achieve, for what I totally believed in myself and backed myself to do, jolted me and gave me a shock.
It was hard to take it in at first, I wasn’t able to think clearly about my next steps but then a trait of mine kicked in. A trait which has kept me strong and going till now, a trait for which I’m thankful to God—the ability to to transform negativity into positive energy, to seek optimism in an apparently bleak situation and start self-analysis.
I don’t know the cause, but whenever I’m told that the thing I believe in, I can’t do it or I’m not good enough for it, instead of getting demotivated and thinking what a waste I am, I rather take it as guidance and go on to analyze where did I go wrong? There are obviously things that I lack. Perhaps it’s the desire to keep on improving myself, but the energy that I gain forces me to gain what I’m lacking, to learn.
And I’ll do the same this time too. Going to analyze what I need to do to prove myself. Oh, and I’m going to try and blog a bit regularly here, I so miss this place. 😉
Load shedding and power outages: For those who can’t live without their computers and internet for any or no reason, this situation is a worst nightmare.
This is a rough, simple and not a sophisticated solution, but works in keeping your devices powered on! It can power not only DSL/WiFi routers, but also any other appliance that can work at 9V or 12V. Keep the internet alive, and use it on your laptop or cell phone, 24×7!
I use it to power my PTCL DSL ZXDSL 831CII DSL router and a TP-Link WR740N WiFi router. PTCL router’s ratings are 12VDC 500mA, TP-Link’s 9VDC 700mA.
That’s why I’ve taken two outputs.
Circuit Diagram – DIY UPS for DSL Modem/WiFi Router:
One 12V 7AH lead acid battery.
One 16 or 18V laptop charger, max 2-2.5A current to charge the battery.
Five 1N5404 diodes.
One LM338T linear voltage regulator with a heatsink.
One 0.1uF ceramic capacitor.
One 1uF electrolytic capacitor (note the polarity of capacitor).
Two resistors. R1 = 2.6kOhm, R2= 250 Ohms.
Things that you need to note:
Make sure you check the specs of your appliances, in this case, router/modem first.
If you are only using a single router, just remove the respective part from circuit diagram. E.g., if you are using a 12V router, you don’t need those 4 diodes and 9V output jack.
You need to attach a DC pin to the outputs of the circuit. The same pin that is connected to your adapters, which go into your modem. Now, you don’t need that adapter. Just buy the same pin from market.
You can give input from a laptop charger of 16V to 18V. Keep in mind the current rating of the charger, as higher current ratings can damage the battery quite quickly. Even 2A current is too much for a battery of 7AH. It should be around 700mA, but that will also cause slow charging.
You must also attach a heatsink with LM338T IC. It gets extremely hot during operation!
I used a veroboard to build the circuit. You can use either that (will have to solder things), or use a breadboard.
Thanks to folks at Wiredpakistan like Ijaz, jhagra and Asad for their help.